Interview
Levi Roots’ guide to Carnival - the Notting Hill Carnival food you need to try
By Joanna Sarah-Freedman
21 Aug 2024
5m
You’ll likely recognise Levi Roots from his stint on Dragon’s Den in 2007, but if not, you’ll know him from the supermarket shelves, where an etching of his beaming face appears on bottles of his famous Reggae Reggae sauce.
Tangy, fragrant and slightly hot with scotch bonnet, the sauce is inspired by his grandmother’s recipe – rich with memories of his childhood in Jamaica. But what many might not recall is that Notting Hill Carnival was also a key part of its origin story.
“If there wasn't a Notting Hill Carnival, Levi Roots’ Reggae Reggae Sauce would certainly not be here,” says Levi. “It will always be something really special to me.”
Levi first visited Carnival in his early teens, helping his aunt out scaling fish on her food stall. He was beguiled by the crowds, the costumes and “how happy [his] aunt was…singing away, dancing away” while cooking. It’s no wonder, then, he ended up building a name for himself doing exactly the same thing.
READ MORE: Twisted chats to the people behind the food at Notting Hill Carnival
As the years went on, Levi cemented himself as part of the Carnival furniture. He was involved in an iconic reggae sound system, flogged t-shirts and whistles and finally launched food concept, Rasta’raunt, selling jerk chicken with a smile and a guitar.
“A lot of the stores weren't doing a proper manicured sauce, they were just smashing up scotch bonnet and putting a bit of tomato ketchup in it,” he says. “African people and Caribbeans can stand the heat, but I think a lot of people coming to eat at Carnival were [from all over the world], and didn't really like something that hot.
“So, I discovered that I needed to change my grandmother's original recipe into something that had a bit more flavour, adding things like curry and cumin and all that kind of stuff, just to give a bit of romance [to the food].
“You could enjoy it and not be fanning your mouth and having face ache from the scotch bonnet chilis,” he laughs.
After almost two decades of selling his Reggae Reggae sauce on a Carnival food stall, seeing crowds build and even allowing addicted punters to take some home in Lucozade bottles, he realised he had a business. The rest, they say, is history.
Now, Levi is busy running a condiment empire, with the occasional stint on the likes of Celebrity Big Brother and This Morning – but he’ll always remain deeply passionate about where it all begun.
The TV chef reflects on his many years of hard slog in the weeks before festivities, prepping his food and mentally readying for “the hardest work that [you] could possibly ever think of.”
“It’s tough, because fires are burning and your jerk seasoning is going, but [when] the crowds start coming in and people smile, then it doesn't feel like work anymore,” he says.
Having moved from Jamaica aged 11, it's clear Carnival was far more than just a business opportunity for him.
“You’ve got to remember that Carnival started not because people wanted to jump around and dance and eat food, it was a call against injustice and racism,” he says.
Noting the current political climate, he adds: ”It just shows us the reason we need to celebrate inclusion…why we need to use music and food and party vibes to come together."
Levi no longer sells at Carnival – in his own words, “to give everyone else a chance” – so we thought we’d ask him to recommend a few stalls you should visit this year.
Universal Hotpot, 110 Middle Row, W10
“Universal Hotpot are my new favourite, because they have a twist of Caribbean and African food together, and I think with the emergence of Afrobeats, that stall is going to do really well this year.
“I think the new sound of Carnival is going to be Afrobeats because of the popularity of the music.
“They’ll be doing Jollof rice – I think that's the star. I would definitely look out for them!”
Mr Roy Jerk Chicken, Golborne Road, W10
“The other stall I’d like to give a shout out to is [from a] gentleman who is so inspirational. His name is Mr. Roy.
“His specialty is spicy jerk chicken and slow cooked oxtail stew. His stall is absolutely perfect, and staffed with a smile, which is important.
“He’s on Golborne Road, which is [one of] the centrepieces of food at the Carnival – it’s just heaving with choices.
“Hygiene is something I’d ask everyone to look out for, but there are some stalls that put hygiene at the top of their list, and Mr Roy is one of them.
“I actually spoke to him the other day and he was telling me that this year is going to be bigger and better from him.”
Grannies Caribbean Jerk Shack, Stall 333, 45 Powis Square, W11 2AX
“The third one I'd love to draw out is on the most inspirational part of Carnival, and that's Powis Square.
“Powis Square is the heartbeat of Carnival, because that's where it started. It's also where the headquarters of Carnival is.
“You can't fail to notice Grannies. The logo is amazing. It's got a Jamaican flag all over it, and it stands out in a like a sore thumb!
“You will get your authentic chicken and rice and peas and your curry goat and that, but they also have little things like mac and cheese and bits of rum cake.
“I performed the last time I was visiting Grannies Caribbean Jerk, and it was really special to see the cooking come to life in front of me.”
Curtis Caribbean, 216 Middle Ln, N8 7LA
“You don't always want food that you have to be eating out of plastic. Sometimes you're gonna grab something, bite it and get back on your way, following the floats.
“[If you’re looking for] dry food you can walk with, you can get it at Curtis’.
“Curtis Caribbean actually have a restaurant in north London, and I think for them, it's about the the patties and street food [as much as the traditional Cairbbean options]. Oh, and it’s not a pasty by the way...people always get them mixed up!
“He's very entrepreneurial as well, Curtis. He came from Jamaica and set up his business here in the UK, and I think patties were one of the first things that he started to do in his restaurant.
“So for that kind of street food to eat on the go, I would recommend Curtis Caribbean”.
Cottons Restaurant, 157-159 Notting Hill Gate, W11 3LF
“If you want something a little bit posher, or something that is more family friendly, where you can sit down and have a meal before you join the floats, I would visit Cottons restaurant.
“You will get a proper menu of Caribbean food, and the menu will be 10 times wider than what people on stalls may have.
“They have lots of rum as well – they specialise in rums – so you can leave the absolutely smashed with your belly full!”
Featured image: Getty/ Levi Roots Instagram
